Bị lỗi there was an error calibrate your battery năm 2024
Battery Error on DJI GO App. I have a DJI Phantom 3 Pro. It was flying fine but I noticed a few cracks in the upper shell near the batteries so I decided to replace the top shell. Once I completed that I was ready to go out and fly again. That’s when I got the battery error (original DJI battery). The DJI Go App will connect to the drone but it shows 0% battery charge. The RC and drone connect, it obviously has power, I also get the message to calibrate. This seems to also be a problem as I go through the ritual but it never calibrates. I have done the following: 1. Tried different batteries with no success, 2. Redownloaded the DJI GO App, 3. Purchased a new mini-SD card, formatted it, and copied the most recent firmware onto it (going through start up multiple times), 4. I relinked the RC with the drone, 5. Updated all batteries, 6. Have tried to line up the battery contacts inside the drone with the battery being inserted. Nothing has worked so far. Is there a contact somewhere that needs cleaning. Could the batteries not be fitting properly. If anyone has any ideas, I would greatly appreciate your help. Favorite Like 2021-9-23 Use props DJI Stephen + Add Friend Person Message Offline 2# Hello there loveadog. I am sorry to read and to know that you are having this issue with your DJI Phantom 3 Pro after replacing the shell of the said DJI Drone. Since you have done several troubleshooting steps to fix the said issue and still the issue persists. I would recommend you contact our support team at https://www.dji.com/support?site=brandsite&from=nav for further assistance. We will do their best to find out the reason of the issue and then the corresponding resolution would be provided. Just a reminder that DJI do not recommend doing a DIY in fixing the said DJI drone to avoid further damaging the said unit. Thank you. 2021-9-23 Use props cheddar-man Flight distance : 44062 ft + Add Friend Person Message United Kingdom Offline 3# Umm. Changing the top shell shouldn't affect the battery connections as the battery holder and connections are on the bottom shell. Only thing on the top shell is the GPS module. Have a closer look at the connections/wires and make sure you haven't somehow broken one? The fact that the problem is there with all your batteries would suggest that the issue is with the holder. All newly-installed smart batteries should be calibrated as soon as possible. This helps your system get an accurate reading on the battery’s state of charge. Without calibration, the battery percentage reading will be incorrect, and your device may behave oddly—shutting down suddenly even though the new battery “reads” half charged, or working for hours when the battery reads nearly dead. For phones, tablets and smartwatches:
For laptops:
It is recommended to perform this process periodically to ensure that the battery remains properly calibrated throughout its lifespan. What’s calibration anyway?For a good read on battery calibration, see this page. This article on fuel gauges is also instructive. What follows is our summation. The fundamental problem is that there’s no reliable way to know exactly how much capacity a battery holds at any given moment. (It’s an electrochemical storage system that is always changing and decaying, and never behaves exactly the same way from one charge to the next.) About the only reliable way to gauge it is to fully charge the battery, then fully discharge it and measure the difference (a.k.a. coulomb counting). Obviously, we can't do that every time we want to check the battery level, so we have to use indirect methods—storing all kinds of usage data and using that to calculate an estimated % state of charge from moment to moment. Over time, that calculation tends to drift and become less accurate. And on a brand-new battery, there’s not really any good data to work with, so the model will be way off. Calibration helps keep estimates accurate by setting new “full charge” and “full discharge” anchors in the battery management system so it doesn’t have to guess. We're still playing Pin the Tail on the Donkey, but calibration tells the battery management system, "Ahem—the donkey is over that way." What does “full charge” and “full discharge” mean?Here’s the nub of the problem. How do you update those “full charge” and “full discharge” flags? The above-linked page at Battery University puts it this way: To maintain accuracy, a smart battery should periodically be calibrated by running the pack down in the device until “Low Battery” appears and then apply a recharge. The full discharge sets the discharge flag and the full charge establishes the charge flag. A linear line forms between these two anchor points that allow state-of-charge estimation. In time, this line gets blurred again and the battery requires recalibration. Figure 2 illustrates the full-discharge and full-charge flags. Two things to notice here: (1) According to this page, it’s not enough to drain and then charge—you have to start by charging it fully. And, (2) “full discharge” is ambiguous. The figure seems to indicate that the full-discharge flag will be set at 10%. But thinking about that makes no sense. The whole problem that's trying to be solved is that the % reading is inaccurate. How does one know when they've drained the battery “below 10%” if their battery reading is inaccurate? They don’t! For example, we've installed numerous batteries that eventually gave a “low battery” warning and then continued to work full steam for hours on an indicated battery charge of 1%. In short, “calibrating" a battery by draining it “below 10%” is futile. It’s like giving someone a car with a broken fuel gauge and telling them to drive until the tank is ¼ full. What may actually be going on here is, the graph above is meant to show the actual chemical state of the battery and not the % indicated in iOS or MacOS, which can be quite different. User-facing software may indicate a battery charge of near zero when the actual chemical state of the battery is closer to 10% charge. This is done deliberately to prevent the battery from ever discharging below a safe level where battery damage may occur and the system may not be able to reboot. In short, the system always shuts itself down with a little bit of charge left in the battery as a safety measure, but it doesn’t show that reserve amount to the user.
Remember there are two different (but connected) systems at play, the battery management system, which monitors and controls the health of the battery and the software user interface (and associated power control software), which reads data from the former to display an indication of battery charge status and level and respond to various flags (like shut down when the discharge flag is set). Now what?We tried to verify suspicions by looking up Apple’s official battery calibration procedure, but they seem to have purged it from their support site under the premise that their newer batteries are calibrated from the factory and are not user-replaceable. However, we were able to find it quoted in a number of forums as follows: To calibrate a portable computer battery: Note that Apple seemingly doesn’t trust your system to know when the battery is fully charged or discharged, and wants you to keep it on the charger an extra two hours just to make sure, before you proceed with the calibration. This seems to align with what we’ve learned, and matches other battery calibration DIYs around the web. |