Đánh giá geforce gtx 1080 aorus

So here we'll have a look at GPU temperatures. First up, IDLE (desktop) temperatures as reported through software on the thermal sensors of the GPU. IDLE temperatures first, overall anything below 50 Degrees C is considered okay, anything below 40 Degrees C is nice. We threw in some cards at random that we have recently tested in the above chart. But what happens when we are gaming? We fire off an intense game-like application at the graphics card and measure the highest temperature of the GPU.

So with the cards fully stressed we kept monitoring temperatures and noted down the GPU temperature as reported by the thermal sensor.

• The card's temperature under heavy game stress stabilized at roughly 64 Degrees C. We note down the hottest GPU reading, not the average.

These tests have been performed with a 20~21 Degrees C room temperature, this is a peak temperature based on a FireStrike loop. Please note that under 60 Degrees C the fans remain inactive, this will result in slightly higher IDLE temperatures.

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Over the past month or so IGN has looked at a handful of GTX 1080 Ti GPUs in an effort to figure out if there are any major differences between them, and of course, help you figure out which one to buy if you're in the market. So far we've sampled very similar boards from Asus, EVGA, and MSI, but Gigabyte's new flagship GPU – the liquid cooled version with an extremely long name – is a different beast entirely. The (deep breath) AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce Xtreme Edition 11G(See it on Newegg) / (See it on Amazon UK) is similar to other high-end 1080 Tis but includes its very own water block that's attached to a 120mm radiator with a fan to cool it. To have that type of heavy-duty cooling on a flagship GPU is a pretty special thing. It should be noted the company also sells a version with just the water block attached for those who already have a DIY setup installed.

How does it stack up to the more stock 1080Tis? Let's dive in:

Spec sheet comparison

label=Design%20and%20Features

The Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce is a pretty standard GTX 1080 Ti, aside from the liquid cooling apparatus that is. Examined side-by-side with its competitors, its specs aren't much different from any other GTX 1080 Ti. The major difference, of course, is its cooling, which is naturally capable of performance that is above and beyond what air coolers can reasonably achieve. Because of this cooling, its clocks are a bit higher than what you would find on other GPUs, but as I've said in previous reviews, these specs are totally irrelevant since all GTX 1080 Ti cards will go far beyond the spec without any user intervention thanks to Nvidia's GPU Boost 3.0. Regardless, if we're just looking at the spec sheets we can see this GPU is clocked a bit higher than most. It features "one click overclocking" via the the Gigabyte software, and since it's easy to do and the card will run higher than it anyway, that's what I'm quoting here. There are three options for overclocking: OC Mode (the highest), Gaming mode, and Silent mode. The clock speeds for each mode are: 1746MHz, 1721MHz, and 1582MHz. Those are Boost Clocks, but again, they are largely meaningless.

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The card features a bevvy of connectors, which are designed to make it more VR friendly than other 1080 Ti cards. Not only does it sport three DisplayPort connectors, but it has three HDMI ports too, with one on the front of the card and two on the back. There's also a legacy dual-link DVI port for those with older monitors.

The card includes a closed-loop liquid cooler, and all you have to do is bolt it on and fire it up. DIY liquid cooling enthusiasts might turn up their nose at such a newbie-oriented setup, but it's certainly a lot easier having to remove the stock cooler and delicately bolt on a water block. That's a bridge too far for a lot of people, and it's the same reason why closed-loop coolers are so popular these days. They deliver 95% of the benefits of a DIY setup with 95 percent less hassle. This cooler in particular is comprised of the water block/pump that is pre-installed on the GPU, and a 120mm radiator/fan with braided tubing.

There's nothing too crazy about the cooling setup in that everything about the fan and radiator seems straightforward. You can see the massive copper water clock peeking through the top of the GPU shroud, but other than that it's pretty standard as far as these types of coolers go. To install the kit you just attach the 120mm radiator to your case, as the fan is already attached right out of the box, and as a bonus, is the same fancy Aorus fan found on the company's flagship GPUs, with tiny lips on the edge of the blades with grooves behind to help channel the air. Once the GPU is installed, sending power to the card fires up the pump and the liquid begins to circulate. The card requires two 8-pin PCIe connectors, and there's a six-pin-to-eight pin adapter in the box for those of you with older PSUs. Gigabyte recommends a minimum 600w power supply.

Finally, since this is a flagship GPU naturally it includes RGB illumination. There is a small Auros logo on the side that lights up, and a large X-shaped area over the water block glows very bright as well. Sadly, since the water block boasts most of the illumination, you'll never see it since it's underneath the GPU. It does tend to emit a glow into your case however, which is kind of cool.

label=Software

The included software is called Gigabyte Graphics Engine, and it's a bit rough around the edges, but still easy enough to use. It lets you examine and modify GPU clocks, power and temperature targets, as well as monitor the card's vitals. Naturally the most important part of the software, for me at least, is the RGB lighting control. You can turn the LED effects on or off, or choose from the following animations: consistent, breathing, flashing, dual flashing, monitoring, audio flashing, and circling (cycling). My favorite was monitoring, just because it was cool to see the LEDs go from green to yellow as the GPU heated up in testing. Unfortunately, or fortunately perhaps, the color never changed to red, as the GPU never got hotter than 62C. I'm not sure what Gigabyte uses as the thresholds, but it was green at 40C, then turned yellow around 55C, but that's all I saw in testing. You can also set it to change color based on GPU utilization or fan speed too.

label=Benchmarks

To find out how the WaterForce fared against the competition, I strapped it into a test system we built that uses an Intel Core i7-7700K CPU (non-overclocked), 8GB of DDR4 RAM, an Asus motherboard, and an Intel SSD. All tests were run at their highest possible settings, with no anti-aliasing. Tests were run at the three most common resolutions, and I compared the GPU to the previous GTX 1080 Tis we've reviewed.

Before we started calling around to get several GTX 1080 Ti GPUs in for review, we had a hypothesis that they'd all perform similarly. This is pretty simple to explain really; they are all the same GPU. Though some manufacturers use a custom PCB and obviously the cooling apparatus is different on each card, they should still all run at similar clock speeds, thus ensuring parity.

With the addition of the WaterForce to our benchmark chart, we have now tested six GTX 1080 Ti cards in total, and we can now say definitively that they all do in fact perform similarly.

label=Overclocking

Since this bad boy is liquid cooled I expected it to overclock like a mutha right out of the box, and I wasn't disappointed, at first. By just clicking the "OC Mode" in the Graphics Engine software, and not touching anything else, it exploded out of the gate to an impressive 2025Mhz.

After running for about 20 minutes the clocks began to fall slightly as the card warmed up, dropping down to a still-impressive 1999MHz. It stayed at that clock speed for about an hour and then the clocks started to drop a bit, hovering around 1974MHz. In all my time with GTX 10-Series GPUs I've found most of them don't seem to want to cross the 2GHz barrier, likely due to the amount of voltage supplied to the GPU. Even though Nvidia's demo at the 1080 launch was running at 2.1GHz, I've yet to see that in the real world (shocking, I know). Most cards end up close to 2GHz with some overclocking, so the fact that this GPU was already at 2GHz right out of the box was neat, but also not surprising given its cooling power.

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After letting it run for a good 24 hours I began to fiddle with the clock offset a bit, and usually this lets me bump it up a tiny bit, say 50 to 100Mhz typically depending on where the clocks are to begin with. On the WaterForce though, I wasn't able to adjust the clocks at all. Every time I'd increase the clocks, even by a small amount like 15MHz, the application I was using (Heaven 4.0) would crash. This was repeatable and consistent. In the end I just let the card do its thing with everything left in their default states, and the card settled on a final clock of about 1961Mhz. This is a bit lower than I anticipated for a card with such prodigious cooling, but not out of the ordinary for a GTX 1080 Ti at all. Still, it was a bit disappointing.

The bright side is the card ran super cool at around 58C when my apartment was cool in the morning, and 62C after things warmed up a bit later in the day. This is substantially cooler than even the most gnarly aftermarket coolers are capable of, and for example the Asus ROG Strix, which has a 2.5 slot cooler, was able to run at 68C, but a slightly smaller card like the EVGA SC2 ran at 72C, which is more typical. Therefore, the WaterForce version of this GPU is capable of lowering load temperatures about 10C overall, and the biggest benefit is that the GPU is totally silent at all times. Even lowering my head down next to the GPU and the fan/radiator when it was operating at full load, I could never discern even the slightest amount of noise. If you're looking for a truly "whisper quiet" GPU, this is the one to get.

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The test system we built uses a Cooler Master Hyper212 to cool the CPU, so I originally installed the WaterForce GPU's cooler in the traditional case exhaust location next to the CPU since it was available. However, upon performing this installation there was a lot of excessive tubing that frankly looked pretty terrible. I figured at first this was the natural location for the radiator to be installed since that's where people attach exhaust fans.

Installing the radiator in the traditional "exhuast" location left too much excess cable hanging out.

After examining my handiwork, I realized Gigabyte is assuming if you purchase this GPU you already have a CLC cooler for your CPU, so this spot will likely already be occupied. Gigabyte has endowed this GPU's cooler with quite a bit of tubing, at least 13 inches or so, but it's hard to measure since it's bent quite a bit. Given this situation I looked at other options, and since installing it in the front of the case would require flipping the fan orientation, I decided to install it in the top of my case instead so it could exhaust hot air out of the chassis that way. After running tests with the radiator in both locations I discovered no difference in operating temperatures, leaving me to conclude putting it at the top of your case is the best option.